Archive for the ‘Vietnam’ Category

Vietnam Summary

Sunday, June 5th, 2011

8 – 27 May 2010, Vietnam

Way back in the summer of ’09 we made a list of the countries we’d like to visit on our round-the-world trip. Vietnam made the list not only because we’d been there before and loved it, but because of Hoi An, a small town just south of Da Nang known for custom tailoring. In Hoi An I could get cheap, tailor-made clothing that would actually fit my lanky frame, instead of looking like a flying squirrel in a shirt off the rack.

As usual when we landed we had only a vague sense of our itinerary. We initially planned to follow the tracks we made during our first visit to Vietnam in 2006, starting in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and working our way north along the coast towards Hoi An. After a few days in Saigon’s oppressive humidity we decided to detour to the cool mountain city of Dalat on our way north, and from there opted for a motorcycle tour through central Vietnam. In hindsight we were very happy with our decision. In recent years the coastal route has become very popular with younger backpackers. We traveled only a short distance on the coast, from Hoi An two hours further north to Hue. We were joined on the journey with a bus full of malodorous British gap year travelers, who regaled us with their shared experiences drinking, partying, and hooking up.

The Highs

  • Saigon is a fascinating city. The Reunification Palace, the former home and workplace of the President of South Vietnam, seems untouched with much of the furniture and military equipment preserved. It’s as if time stopped in April 1975, when a North Vietnamese tank crashed through the gates and ended the Vietnam war. The War Remnants Museum, originally called the “The House for Displaying War Crimes of American Imperialism and the Puppet Government”, is filled with hilarious yet sobering government propaganda.
  • The food in Vietnam is fresh and delicious. We’re now totally hooked on Vietnamese sandwiches, and we’ve fortunately found a place here in San Francisco that sells them for $3.50. Cheap, yet about four times as much as in Vietnam!
  • Our motorcycle tour with the Easy Riders was one of the best experiences of our entire trip. We avoided the crowds, saw a side of Vietnam that few westerners of our generation have seen, and heard firsthand accounts of the war from Vietnamese veterans. We got a sense for some of the lasting effects of the war as we drove past large tracts of chemically defoliated and unproductive land. Propaganda was everywhere in the rural towns and our guides sometimes kept their voices low, a reminder that the government’s hand remains heavy even today.

The Lows

  • Saigon in May is hot and humid. REALLY hot and humid. Never before have I sat in front of a computer, limiting my physical exertion to the occasional click of the mouse, and literally dripped sweat onto the table.
  • Although I can now go to work without fear of being compared to Jerry in the puffy shirt episode of Seinfeld, Hoi An was our least favorite place in Vietnam. Hoi An marked our return to crowds and tourist prices after a tranquil week with the Easy Riders, and having clothes made was a long and exasperating process.

Cost Summary

Category Daily Average (USD) Notes
Transportation $9.51 One internal flight from Hue to Saigon makes up over half this category. Travel during the motorcycle tour is excluded.
Accommodation $12.97 We always stayed in private rooms.
Food $16.12 All of our food was from restaurants or street vendors.
Entertainment $40.29 We agonized over spending $125 per day for the motorcycle tour, but in hindsight it was the right decision.
Visas $9.47 We paid $180 for two visas, arranged from the U.S. before we left.
Shopping $33.89 We spent about $650 on Jason’s tailored clothing and a few souvenirs.
Essentials $0.78 Laundry, toothpaste, etc. We’d incur many of these same expenses at home.
All $123.03 Daily average for all expenses in the Vietnam.

We spent $2337.64 during 19 days in Vietnam, for an average daily cost of $123.03. Excluding the motorcycle tour and shopping expenses, the daily average for Vietnam falls to about $50. Cheap!

Conversion to USD based on 1 USD = 18852 VND.

High Fashion in Hoi An

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

18 – 23 May 2010, Vietnam

Our tour with the Easy Riders ended on May 18th when we rolled into Hoi An. After six tranquil days on the motorcycles Hoi An was a shock to the system: traffic filled the streets, there were tourists everywhere, and without Hong and Duc our chances of paying anything resembling local prices were just about zero. The motorcycle trip moved our route inland instead of along the coast but we’d always planned to visit Hoi An. The city is famous for custom tailors, and just about every article of clothing I’d worn to work since 2006 was sewn in Hoi An. My recollection was that Hoi An was like a Brothers Grimm fairy tale, with perfectly fitting, high quality garments produced magically overnight. Unfortunately our second visit reminded me that the process isn’t quite that lustrous.

Our first step was to choose a tailor, which was not an easy task with literally hundreds of shops lining every street in the city. We initially followed the recommendation of our honorable motorcycle guides, and quickly set about choosing styles and fabrics. All of the shops are filled with fabrics as well as stacks of European fashion magazines, and they’ll copy any design. At this stage we encountered the first signs of trouble in Asian haute couture paradise. Not exactly an expert myself, I looked to the salesperson for advice about fabric selection. He enthusiastically recommended a cotton blend that he himself had purchased for the shop; however, he didn’t seem to know the precise content of the blend. I later learned that he’d only recently returned to Vietnam after living most of his life in Canada, where he’d worked as an engineer. Unless I slept through my textiles classes I’m pretty sure an engineering education isn’t exactly appropriate preparation for a career in fashion. I wasn’t very impressed with the shop but eventually ordered some cotton shirts and wool trousers, and after my measurements  were taken we left so the elves could do their work.

The next afternoon, less than 24 hours later, we returned for my first fitting. Although the shirts fit well, the cuffs were inconsistent, there were small stains on the fabric, and the pants were too tight. It took an exasperating four more fittings before the problems were fixed. A second tailor couldn’t seem to produce two shirts that fit the same. The only truly painless experience was at one of the most expensive tailors in town. A first dress shirt fit perfectly after a single fitting and alteration and an additional two didn’t need any adjustments at all. However at $40 each they were more than twice the price as those from the first tailor.

After five days of staring at fabrics, haggling over prices, and seemingly endless fittings we left Hoi An with several extra bags in hand. Despite the hassle, our visit to Hoi An was worthwhile; with ready-to-wear shirts back home I’m left with the choice of sleeves that barely extend beyond my elbows or a chest with enough extra material to power a small sailboat. Allison, on the other hand, has no problem filling her shopping bags back home and left Hoi An with only a dress and a shirt. Later, back in Saigon, I put my faith in the Vietnamese postal service and sent my purchases off on a slow boat to the USA. With any luck they’ll be waiting for me when I return home, and with a little more luck I’ll find a job to wear them to.

Dalat Easy Riders Live Up to the Hype

Sunday, July 18th, 2010

13 – 18 May 2010, Vietnam

Dalat was included on our Vietnamese itinerary for a couple of reasons. First, we were anxious to escape the heat and humidity sucking the life out of us in Saigon. Second, we never made it there during our first trip to Vietnam. Situated in the Central Highlands, Dalat is famous for its cooler climate, French architecture and Vietnam’s most famous group of motorcycle guides, the Easy Riders.

We didn’t make any arrangements in advance, but the Easy Riders found us as soon as we stepped off the bus from Saigon. They offered a day tour of the surrounding area and although their sales pitch was convincing we weren’t sure if they were the same Easy Riders that people on the internet raved about. In Vietnam it is common for the name of a respected business to be copied by less than upstanding individuals looking to make an easy buck. As we reviewed their pictures and testimonials from former clients we began to feel more confident that they were the “real” Easy Riders. Their official looking vests didn’t hurt either. We decided to join them for a tour the following day.

Our day tour with the Easy Riders, Hong and Trung, completely surpassed our expectations. We visited Buddhist temples, a coffee plantation, a silk worm factory, flower farms, a waterfall and a couple of small family owned businesses producing rice wine and bamboo baskets. These sites alone might not have been exceptionally interesting but visiting them with our knowledgeable guides made a world of difference. At each stop Hong and Trung took turns explaining the things we saw, discussing Vietnamese culture, answering our questions and patiently waiting while we took pictures. Topping it all off was our lunch stop where we sampled an array of delicious Vietnamese dishes at local prices.

Our stomachs full, our trusty guides could tell we were impressed. Like all good businessmen, they seized the opportunity to discuss other Easy Rider tours. With the aid of a Vietnam map they quickly proposed a route that would fit our schedule. We hadn’t planned for an additional tour but their sales pitch started to take hold and we were soon contemplating a five day tour from Dalat to Hoi An. Portions of their proposed 890 kilometer route followed the Ho Chi Minh trail and offered enough war history to satisfy even the most discerning history buff. As far as we were concerned, one of their greatest selling points was Hong himself. He was a former lieutenant in the South Vietnamese Army so we knew we would hear firsthand accounts of the war.

Despite our excitement we felt uneasy about the relatively high cost of the tour. During our first week in Vietnam we lived well on about $50 a day; taking the Easy Rider tour would nearly triple our daily expenses. Later that afternoon we spreadsheeted our expenses to the extreme and finally concluded that we could afford to splurge on the tour. Exceptional tour guides are difficult to come by and we wanted to take advantage of their expertise. The next morning we found out that Trung was unable to join us and another Easy Rider named Duc would take his place. We were initially disappointed but it didn’t take long for us to fall in love with Duc. His sense of humor perfectly complemented Hong’s reserved demeanor.

During our five day motorcycle tour we drove north, visiting brick making factories, rubber plantations, and small businesses where we saw how things like tofu, sugar and rice paper are made. We browsed markets so far off the beaten path that people were genuinely surprised to see a tall, blonde haired foreigner wandering around. Farms were another frequent stop and for the first time in my life, I saw how peppercorn, cashews and mushrooms are grown. We passed through areas only recently resettled, after being evacuated due to high concentrations of chemical defoliants during the war. The Vietnamese government has forcibly relocated people back to the areas in order to create new economic zones. Similar to our one day tour, Hong and Duc taught us an incredible amount. At each stop they provided in-depth explanations of how products are grown or made. Their knowledge seemed endless and, as promised, they were continually able to get us local prices for food and accommodation. This is no small feat in a country where foreigners are consistently overcharged.

As much as we enjoyed the factory and farm tours, we were even more blown away by Hong and Duc’s war stories, the never-ending stream of propaganda billboards and historical sites including Charlie Hill and Phoenix Airbase. One of our many stops was Dak To, a major battlefield in the American War. Other than a faded plaque, some bomb craters and barely visible trenches, there isn’t much to indicate it was once the scene of intense fighting. If we hadn’t been there with the Easy Riders we never would’ve been able to distinguish it from the surrounding area. Despite the lives lost from both sides at this battlefield and others, Vietnam has no memorials commemorating the South Vietnamese soldiers.

As we drove north on the back of Hong and Duc’s motorcycles, they repeatedly pointed out war remnants that we never would have recognized. We saw the remains of bridges bombed during the war and hillsides wiped clean of trees by Agent Orange. One of our more unusual stops was a recycling facility. In addition to the usual plastic bottles and aluminum cans, there were piles of unexploded mortar rounds, grenades, land mines, and shell casings. Although most metal was collected shortly after the war, some Vietnamese still head out each day in search of valuable objects.

Our five day tour with the Easy Riders has earned a place on our list of around the world trip highlights. In our opinion a motorcycle tour is the absolute best way to see the Vietnamese countryside. I now realize how much we missed while stuck inside a cramped bus during our last trip to Vietnam. Other than Hong and Duc’s phenomenal skills as tour guides, what I will remember most is the throngs of kids chasing after us as we drove through small towns and villages. With our backpacks strapped to the back of the motorcycles they could see us coming and, before we even had a chance to wave, they would jump up and down, waving their arms and shouting, their adorable faces covered in huge grins. If we had stuck to our original plan and traveled up the coast on a bus, we would have missed out on countless interactions like this that made the trip so special. Although we were initially apprehensive at the thought of paying for such an expensive tour, I now have no doubt that it was money well spent.